Peony

Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering

Overview: Peonies are long-lived, hardy perennials that need a cold winter to set flower buds and thrive in full sun to light shade. They demand deep, fertile, well-draining soil and steady moisture, but rot in soggy ground.

Quick Care Requirements

Requirement	Ideal Condition
Planting Season	In autumn, or early spring while dormant
Growth Rate	Moderate
Soil Type	Deep, fertile, well-draining
Water Need	Moderate; consistent moisture, never waterlogged

Planting & Establishment

• Best Planting Season: Plant while dormant; autumn is ideal, or early spring, so the roots settle before growth. A cold winter is essential for the chilling hours that trigger flowering.
• How to Plant:
  • Hole Preparation: Dig a wide hole in deep, well-worked soil so the fleshy roots can spread.
  • Soil Amendments: Work in compost and organic matter, and ensure sharp drainage, as peonies rot in wet ground.
  • Planting Depth: Crucial: set the growth eyes only 2-5 cm below the surface. Planting too deep is the most common reason herbaceous peonies fail to bloom.
• Growth Speed & Expectations: A moderate grower and very long-lived, reaching about 0.3-4 m; it dies back each winter and returns in spring.

Soil, Watering & Drainage Care

• Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Needs deep, fertile, free-draining soil; not ideal for long-term pots, but if potted use a rich, well-draining mix with drainage holes.
• Watering Schedule & Technique:
  • Young / Newly Planted: Water regularly to keep the soil evenly moist while the roots establish.
  • Established: Water deeply during dry spells and while flowering; let the surface dry slightly between waterings.
  • Seasonal Adjustments: More during spring growth and bloom; much less in winter dormancy.

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

Peony (Paeonia) is a long-lived, sun-loving perennial that needs a cold winter to flower, so it is not a houseplant. The grower grows it in containers, which works well as long as the pot is large and the plant still gets its winter chill.

Quick Details

• Container Size: A large, deep container – peonies are deep-rooted and long-lived
• Indoor Suitability: Not a houseplant – needs full sun and a cold winter dormancy
• Best Spot: Full sun to half shade
• Soil & Drainage: Rich but free-draining mix; peonies resent soggy soil
• Watering in Pots: Keep evenly moist in growth; sharp drainage – peonies hate waterlogged roots

Indoors & On the Windowsill

• Not a houseplant: The grower does not grow peonies indoors – they need full sun and, crucially, a cold winter dormancy to set flower buds, which a warm room cannot provide.
• Containers with a cold rest: They grow well in large pots outdoors; leave the pot outside (or in an unheated spot) through winter so the plant gets the chill it needs.
• Keep away from pets: Peonies are mildly toxic to dogs and cats if eaten – worth noting if pots are within reach.

On a Balcony or Patio

• Light & wind: Give it the sunniest spot. Walls, railings and paving reflect heat, so pots dry fast – check moisture daily in warm weather, and shelter or stake tall growth from wind.
• Weight & runoff: A full pot of moist soil is heavy – check the balcony can take it, and stand pots so drainage water runs off cleanly without staining or flooding a neighbour below.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

• Pot & drainage: A pot with strong drainage holes and no standing-water saucer, so the roots never sit wet and rot. Terracotta breathes and dries faster (good against overwatering), while glazed or plastic holds moisture longer – match it to how often you water.
• Potting mix: A light, aerated, organic-rich mix – potting soil or peat/coir with perlite or vermiculite, blended with compost or well-rotted organic matter.
• Feeding: Nutrients leach out of pots with every watering, so potted plants need feeding more often than those in the ground – a balanced liquid feed through the growing season keeps them going.
• Repotting: Refresh the mix and pot up about every two years; for perennials, lightly trim the root ball and top growth at the same time to keep them vigorous.

Bloom & Edible Flower Guide

Quick Details

• Bloom Season: Spring to summer
• Time to First Bloom: Often from the second or third year, as the crown establishes
• Flower Appearance: Large, fragrant, many-petalled flowers in pink, white, yellow, red, orange or purple; some cultivars have a feathery centre
• Edibility: The petals are edible – used to flavour teas, scattered in salads and crystallised as decoration (use only unsprayed blooms; the roots and other parts are medicinal, not for casual eating)

Detailed Blooming Overview

Peonies are among the most loved of all garden flowers, opening large, sumptuous, fragrant blooms in late spring and summer. The colour range runs from pink and white through yellow, red, orange and purple, and forms vary from simple single flowers to fully double blooms, some with a feathery cluster of petals at the centre. The petals have a long history as an edible flower, used in teas, salads and confectionery.

Flower Characteristics

• Large, fragrant flowers, usually many-petalled, in pink, white, yellow, red, orange or purple.
• Some cultivars carry a soft, feather-like tuft of petals in the middle.
• Excellent and long-lasting as a cut flower.

Bloom Care & Thinning

• Managing the bloom: Support the heavy blooms with rings or stakes so rain does not flatten them; deadhead spent flowers, and for larger show blooms remove the small side buds so the plant feeds the main flower. Harvest petals for the kitchen only from unsprayed plants.
• Pollination: Visited mainly by bees; the ants often seen on the buds are drawn to their sweet nectar and do no harm.

Bloom Health & Protection

• Botrytis bud blast (grey mould): In cool, wet spring weather flower buds can blacken and fail to open, sometimes with a grey fuzz. Cutting out affected buds and stems, clearing old foliage and improving air circulation are the first line; a sulfur- or copper-based fungicide can be used where it recurs, though avoid treating flowers you intend to eat.

Pruning, Training & Seasonal Maintenance

Paeonia (peony) splits into two very different plants for pruning, and getting the type right is the whole point: herbaceous peonies die back to a ground-level crown each year and are cut down in autumn, while tree (shrub) peonies build a permanent woody framework that must be left standing and only lightly pruned. In both, the flowers are the prize, and both bloom on growth whose timing you must respect — herbaceous types on shoots that rise fresh from the crown each spring, tree types on buds carried over on last year’s woody stems. Peonies are also long-lived and slow to establish, resent disturbance, and famously refuse to flower if the crown is planted too deep, so restraint is the guiding principle: minimal, well-timed cuts, sanitation against botrytis, deadheading, and — for herbaceous types — renewal by division rather than hard cutting-back.

Quick Pruning & Maintenance Specs

Pruning Tolerance	Herbaceous: cut to the ground yearly. Tree/shrub: Low — minimal, light structural only
Primary Pruning Window	Herbaceous: autumn cut-down. Tree: light thinning of dead/weak wood after flowering or late winter
Secondary Maintenance Window	Deadhead as blooms fade; herbaceous division in autumn
Typical Frequency	Herbaceous: once-yearly cut-down plus deadheading. Tree: occasional light pruning only
Main Objective	Protect bloom, limit botrytis, and keep the right framework for the type
Young Plant Priority	Both: leave undisturbed to establish; deadhead only; no hard cutting
Mature Plant Priority	Herbaceous: autumn cut-down and eventual division. Tree: remove dead/crossing wood, suckers
Best Tool Type	Bypass secateurs for stems; a saw for old tree-peony wood; a spade for division
Avoid Heavy Pruning During	Tree peony: any hard cutting — never cut it to the ground. Herbaceous: while foliage is still green

Pruning by Plant Age & Size

Newly Established

Both forms are slow to settle and are best left almost alone for the first couple of years — remove only damaged growth and deadhead. Do not be tempted to ‘shape’ a young tree peony hard; it builds its framework slowly. Above all, check planting depth: an herbaceous peony’s crown eyes should sit only two to five centimetres below the surface, as a crown planted too deep will grow leaves but never flower.

Young / Formative

Herbaceous types need no training — the shoots rise from the crown each year. A young tree peony is shaped only lightly: allow it to develop a naturally branched, open woody framework, removing just dead, weak or badly crossing shoots after flowering. Grafted tree peonies (many are grafted onto a herbaceous nurse root) must be watched for suckers from that rootstock — see below.

Mature / Established

A mature herbaceous peony is cut to the ground each autumn and, only if it must be moved or divided, lifted in autumn and split into pieces with three to five eyes each. A mature tree peony is maintained, not renewed: remove dead, damaged, weak or crossing wood, keep its framework open, and it can slowly be relieved of the oldest exhausted stems over years — but it is never cut down.

Seasonal Pruning Schedule

Late Spring / Early Summer (deadheading)

Objective: tidy the plant and stop it wasting energy on seed. Remove: spent flowers — on herbaceous types cut the stem back to a strong leaf; on tree peonies snip just above the first healthy bud below the flower. Do NOT: remove healthy foliage. Expected response: energy returns to the crown or wood for next year’s buds. Flowering impact: supports next season’s bloom.

Autumn (herbaceous cut-down & botrytis sanitation)

Objective: remove disease-carrying foliage before winter. Remove: on herbaceous peonies, all top growth cut to just above the crown once it yellows; bag and bin it rather than composting. Do NOT: cut tree peonies down — this stage is for herbaceous types. Expected response: far less botrytis (grey mould/peony wilt) carried into spring. Flowering impact: none — next year’s eyes are set on the crown.

Late Winter (tree peony tidy)

Objective: clean the woody framework. Remove: dead, broken or clearly weak tree-peony stems, and any obvious crossing wood. Do NOT: shorten healthy stems carrying fat flower buds. Expected response: an open, healthy framework. Flowering impact: preserves the buds already formed on last year’s wood.

Flowering & Fruiting Wood

This is the crux of peony pruning. Herbaceous peonies flower on the current season’s shoots, which emerge fresh from the crown each spring, so the autumn cut-down removes nothing but spent foliage and next year’s flowers come from the crown’s eyes — provided those eyes are not buried too deep. Tree peonies, by contrast, flower from buds carried over winter on the previous season’s woody stems, so any hard cutting-back of that wood, or cutting a tree peony ‘to the ground’ as if it were herbaceous, removes exactly the buds that would have flowered. The rule follows directly: cut herbaceous types down in autumn without fear; on tree types, prune only dead or weak wood and keep the flowering stems.

Structural Pruning & Training

Herbaceous peonies have no lasting structure to train — their ‘structure’ is the crown, renewed only by division. Tree peonies do have a woody framework: keep it open and healthy by removing dead, damaged, weak and crossing stems, ideally after flowering or in late winter, and over several years you can gradually remove the oldest, least productive stems to encourage renewal from the base. Work slowly; tree peonies are grafted or slow-rooted and do not appreciate heavy structural change at once.

Special Growth to Remove

On both types, remove spent flowers (deadheading) and, in autumn, dead herbaceous foliage. On grafted tree peonies the critical special removal is rootstock suckers: many are grafted onto a herbaceous peony nurse root, and shoots arising from below the graft union are the wrong plant — trace them to their origin and remove them, or they will overwhelm the desired top. Herbaceous peonies do not sucker in this way; their only ‘renewal’ growth is the crown eyes, which are kept, not removed.

Container & Small-Space Pruning

Peonies can be grown in large containers, and the pruning does not change with the pot: cut herbaceous types down in autumn and deadhead; prune tree peonies only lightly for dead wood and watch for rootstock suckers. What the pot does not do is allow you to control size by cutting — a tree peony must keep its flowering wood, and an herbaceous peony’s size is set by its crown. Use a container generously sized for the deep, fleshy roots, and keep crown depth correct when potting so the plant will flower.

Tools

Bypass secateurs make the clean cuts for deadheading and for cutting herbaceous stems down, and for removing thin tree-peony wood. A pruning saw or loppers deal with the thicker, older woody stems of an established tree peony. A sharp spade and knife are for lifting and dividing herbaceous crowns. Hedge shears are never appropriate — peonies need selective cuts, not shearing.

Tool Hygiene & Disease Risk

Treat hygiene as Increased, because botrytis (peony wilt / grey mould) is the peony’s signature disease: it over-winters on infected debris and stems, so remove and destroy affected material rather than composting it, and clean your blade after cutting out wilted or mouldy stems before moving to healthy growth or another plant. Routine deadheading of healthy tissue needs only clean, sharp tools, but the moment you are cutting diseased stems, disinfect between cuts.

Cut Placement & Technique

Deadhead herbaceous peonies by cutting the flower stem back to a strong leaf; on tree peonies cut just above a healthy outward-facing bud below the spent bloom. At the autumn cut-down, cut herbaceous stems cleanly to just above the crown without gouging the eyes. On tree-peony wood, cut back to healthy tissue or a junction, outside any collar, and remove suckers right at their point of origin below the graft, not merely at soil level.

Heavy Pruning & Rejuvenation

The two types diverge completely. An herbaceous peony is ‘rejuvenated’ not by hard pruning but by autumn division of the crown into three-to-five-eye pieces, replanted shallowly — and it will then sulk for a year or two before flowering again. A tree peony tolerates only gradual renewal: the oldest, unproductive woody stems can be removed over successive years, but it must never be cut hard to the ground, which removes its flowering wood and can kill a grafted plant. Patience, not severity, renews a peony.

Post-Pruning Care

After the autumn cut-down, simply clear the debris and mulch lightly, keeping mulch off the crown so the eyes are not buried. After dividing, replant at the correct shallow depth, water in, and expect a season or two before full flowering resumes. Tree peonies need no feeding after their light pruning; a hard-pruned or newly divided plant should not be pushed with heavy feed, which favours leaf over the flower and disease.

Common Pruning Mistakes

• Cutting a tree peony down to the ground like an herbaceous one, removing the woody stems that carry next year’s flowers.
• Planting or replanting the crown too deep — the classic reason a peony makes leaves but no flowers.
• Leaving herbaceous foliage and debris over winter, carrying botrytis (peony wilt) into the spring.
• Failing to trace and remove rootstock suckers on a grafted tree peony, so the nurse plant takes over.
• Cutting herbaceous foliage down while it is still green, before it has fed the crown for next year.

When NOT to Prune

Never cut a tree peony hard or to the ground, and do not shorten its bud-bearing wood. Do not cut herbaceous foliage down while it is green — wait until it yellows in autumn so it has fed the crown. Avoid dividing or moving peonies in spring or summer; do it in autumn, and even then expect delayed flowering. And do not prune in a way that disturbs or re-buries the crown, which the plant needs shallow to bloom.

Pruning Troubleshooting

Problem	Possible Cause	What to Check	Corrective Action
Healthy leaves but no flowers	Crown planted too deep; too much shade; recently divided; over-feeding with nitrogen	Depth of the crown eyes; light levels; how recently moved; feeding	Replant with eyes 2–5 cm deep; give more sun; allow 1–2 years after division; ease off nitrogen
Buds blacken and shoots wilt/collapse (herbaceous)	Botrytis / peony wilt from debris carried over	Grey fuzz on stem bases and dead buds; autumn sanitation last year	Cut out and destroy affected stems; do the autumn cut-down and bin the foliage; clean tools
Tree peony fails to flower after pruning	Bud-bearing wood was cut back or the plant was cut too hard	Whether last year’s stems and their fat buds were removed	Prune only dead/weak wood in future; leave the flowering stems and their buds intact
Vigorous different-looking shoots from the base (grafted tree peony)	Rootstock (herbaceous nurse) suckers below the graft	Origin of the shoots relative to the graft union	Trace to origin and remove below the union before they dominate

Recommended Tools (by task)

• bypass_secateurs — for deadheading, the herbaceous autumn cut-down, and removing thin tree-peony wood.
• pruning_saw — for the thicker, older woody stems when relieving an established tree peony of exhausted growth.
• garden_spade — for lifting and dividing herbaceous crowns into three-to-five-eye pieces in autumn.

Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting

Overview: Peonies are long-lived and robust, but the source’s ‘aphids’ badly understates their real problem: fungal disease, led by Botrytis blight, is the peony’s number-one issue, alongside powdery mildew and peony leaf blotch. Aphids, thrips, and scale are minor by comparison, and the ants on the buds are harmless nectar-feeders — not a pest. This genus-level profile covers herbaceous peonies; woody tree peonies share the same diseases with woody-plant tweaks. Airflow, sanitation, and correct planting depth prevent nearly everything.

Quick Troubleshooting Overview

Issue / Pest	Main Symptom	Primary Solution
Botrytis blight	Buds blacken and fail; grey mould on stems/leaves; stems rot at base	Cut out infected parts; autumn clean-up; improve airflow; copper
Powdery mildew	White powdery film on leaves late in season	Improve airflow; sulfur/potassium bicarbonate
Peony leaf blotch	Glossy purple-brown spots (‘measles’) on leaves/stems	Remove debris; airflow; copper if severe
Aphids	Sticky, curled tips; minor	Rinse off; insecticidal soap
Ants on buds	Ants crawling over sticky buds	None needed — harmless nectar-feeders
Failure to bloom	Healthy leaves, few/no flowers	Plant shallower; more sun; be patient

Common Pests & Management

• Aphids (Aphis / Macrosiphum spp.):
  • Symptoms: Small green or brownish soft insects on the soft new shoots, flower stalks, and buds in spring, leaving sticky honeydew and curled tips; a minor pest that rarely does lasting harm.
  • Prevention & Control: Blast off with a jet of water and squash survivors; ladybirds and lacewings usually clear them. Only heavy infestations need insecticidal soap or a light oil on the tips and undersides.
• Thrips (Frankliniella spp.):
  • Symptoms: Tiny slender insects that rasp buds and petals, causing silvery flecking, browned petal edges, and distorted or failed blooms, with black specks of frass in the flowers.
  • Prevention & Control: Remove and destroy infested buds and spent flowers, and encourage predatory mites and minute pirate bugs. Blue sticky traps monitor them; spinosad or insecticidal soap can be used if flowers are being spoiled, applied to protect pollinators.
• Scale insects (Coccus / Eulecanium spp.):
  • Symptoms: Immobile brown or tan bumps on stems and (on tree peonies) woody branches, with sticky honeydew and sooty mould; heavy scale weakens growth.
  • Prevention & Control: Scrape off light infestations and prune out badly encrusted wood. Apply horticultural oil to smother scale and overwintering stages; repeat and encourage parasitic wasps and predators.
• Nematodes (root-knot / foliar) (Meloidogyne / Aphelenchoides spp.):
  • Symptoms: Root-knot forms gall the roots and stunt the plant; foliar nematodes cause angular, vein-bounded brown blotches on leaves in wet conditions.
  • Prevention & Control: Plant into clean, well-drained soil and avoid moving soil from infested areas. Remove and destroy affected foliage, keep leaves dry, and rotate planting sites; there is no cure once roots are heavily galled, so prevention is key.

Diseases & Fungal Issues

• Botrytis blight (Botrytis paeoniae / B. cinerea) — the peony’s #1 disease:
  • Symptoms: Young shoots blacken and wilt in spring; buds turn brown or black and fail to open (‘bud blast’); stem bases rot and topple, and grey fuzzy mould appears on affected buds, stems, and leaves in cool, damp weather.
  • Treatment & Management: Sanitation is decisive: cut infected shoots, buds, and leaves well below the rot and remove all top growth to the ground in autumn (never compost it). Improve airflow by spacing and thinning, avoid overhead watering and excess nitrogen, and plant in a sunny, open site. A copper or appropriate fungicide at emergence protects in wet springs, but clean culture is the real control.
• Powdery mildew (Erysiphe / Podosphaera spp.):
  • Symptoms: A white to greyish powdery film coating the upper leaves and stems, usually later in the season; largely cosmetic but disfiguring, and worse in crowded, shaded, humid conditions.
  • Treatment & Management: Improve air movement, thin crowded clumps, and avoid overhead watering. Remove the worst leaves and clear debris in autumn; sulfur, potassium bicarbonate, or a milk spray checks it at first sign.
• Peony leaf blotch / ‘measles’ (Graphiopsis chlorocephala, syn. Cladosporium paeoniae):
  • Symptoms: Glossy purple to reddish-brown spots and blotches on the upper leaf surfaces (dull chestnut beneath), with elongated red-brown streaks on stems; disfiguring but rarely fatal.
  • Treatment & Management: Remove and destroy fallen leaves and cut top growth to the ground in autumn to break the cycle. Improve airflow and keep foliage dry; a copper-based fungicide from emergence helps where the disease is a recurring nuisance.
• Phytophthora blight & root rot (Phytophthora cactorum):
  • Symptoms: Dark, leathery water-soaked rot on stems, crowns, and buds, and blackened root/crown collapse, especially in wet, heavy, poorly drained soil — more serious and less reversible than Botrytis.
  • Treatment & Management: Plant in well-drained soil or raised beds, avoid waterlogging, and improve drainage. Remove and destroy affected plants and surrounding soil; do not replant peonies in the same infected spot.
• Viruses (peony ringspot / mosaic):
  • Symptoms: Ring patterns, mottling, and yellow-green mosaic on leaves; usually mild but permanent, spread by propagation and sometimes sap-feeding insects.
  • Treatment & Management: Buy healthy stock, control aphids and thrips, and disinfect tools between plants. Rogue out severely affected plants; there is no cure, so prevention and clean division are the management.

Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems

• Failure to bloom (the classic peony complaint)
  • Cause & Symptoms: Lush, healthy leaves but few or no flowers, from planting the crown/eyes too deep, too much shade, recent division, immaturity, or over-feeding with nitrogen.
  • Correction Strategy: Plant the eyes just 3–5 cm below the surface (deeper planting is the commonest cause of no flowers), give full sun, avoid excess nitrogen, and be patient — divisions often take 2–3 years to settle before blooming well.
• Bud blast (buds that fail to open)
  • Cause & Symptoms: Pea-sized buds that form then dry, brown, and abort without opening, from Botrytis, late frost, drought at bud-set, undernourishment, or too-deep/too-shaded planting.
  • Correction Strategy: Rule out and control Botrytis first, keep plants evenly watered and fed through bud development, protect early buds from hard frost, and correct planting depth and light. Established, well-sited plants blast far less.
• Flopping stems
  • Cause & Symptoms: Heavy double blooms pull herbaceous stems to the ground, especially after rain, spoiling flowers and inviting rot where they touch soil.
  • Correction Strategy: Set peony rings or grow-through supports early in the season, choose sturdier single/semi-double or Itoh types where flopping is a problem, and give full sun for stronger stems.
• Site & transplant sensitivity
  • Cause & Symptoms: Sulking, non-flowering plants after being moved, divided, or planted in wet, poorly drained soil.
  • Correction Strategy: Choose the site carefully — peonies resent disturbance and can live for decades in one spot. Plant in well-drained, fertile soil at the correct depth, divide only in autumn, and then leave them undisturbed.

What Helps — Products & Tools

For the minor insects, insecticidal soap, horticultural oil (for scale), and spinosad or blue sticky traps (for thrips) are enough. The real programme is disease-focused: rigorous autumn clean-up, good spacing, and a copper fungicide or sulfur / potassium bicarbonate against Botrytis, leaf blotch, and powdery mildew. Sharp secateurs and clean sanitation matter more than any spray.

Propagation Guide

Herbaceous peonies are most reliably increased by autumn division of the crown, each piece carrying several buds; tree (shrub) peony cultivars are usually grafted, as the site notes, because they root slowly and do not come true from seed. Seed is possible but slow and variable, giving new plants unlike the named parent, so vegetative methods are preferred to keep a selection.

Quick Propagation Specs

Best Propagation Method	Crown division (herbaceous) / grafting (tree-peony cultivars)
Alternative Methods	Seed, layering, semi-ripe cuttings of tree types
Propagation Difficulty	Moderate; grafting is a Specialist skill
Seed True-to-Type	Variable; named cultivars not reproduced from seed
Vegetative True-to-Type	Yes
Best Propagation Season	Autumn for division; late summer to autumn for grafting

Growing from Seed

Dormancy & Pre-Sowing Treatment

Peony seed shows double dormancy: it generally needs a warm period to develop the root followed by a cold period to release the shoot, so germination is naturally slow and often spread over more than one season. Sow fresh seed rather than long-stored seed.

Germination

Expect erratic, prolonged emergence. Seed is used mainly to raise species or to breed new plants, not to reproduce a cultivar.

Grafting & Budding

Why Grafting Is Used

Tree-peony cultivars are grafted because cuttings root poorly and seedlings do not match the parent; grafting keeps the cultivar identical.

Preferred Method & Rootstock

A scion of the chosen cultivar is commonly grafted onto a piece of herbaceous peony root, which acts as a nurse rootstock while the scion forms its own roots. This is done in late summer to autumn and is a skilled operation.

Aftercare

Keep the union buried and protected, and grow the graft on cool and sheltered until it is well knitted and rooted.

Division, Offsets, Pups & Suckers

Lift a dormant herbaceous clump in autumn and cut the fleshy crown so that each division has three to five plump buds (eyes) and a share of storage roots. Replant with the eyes only a few centimetres deep. Peonies resent disturbance and take a while to re-establish after division.

Air & Ground Layering

Low branches of tree peonies can be layered by wounding and pinning a stem into the soil; rooting is slow but avoids the skill needed for grafting.