Agave atrovirens

Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering

Overview: Agave atrovirens is a drought-tolerant, frost-tender succulent that thrives in full sun to light shade and needs very little water once established. Give it a sharply drained, sandy or gritty soil, keep it frost-free, and never let it sit in standing water.

Quick Care Requirements

Requirement	Ideal Condition
Planting Season	Spring in zone 9; spring–summer in 10a, spring–autumn in 10b; year-round in zone 11+
Growth Rate	Slow
Soil Type	Well-draining, sandy or gritty (lean, not rich)
Water Need	Low — let the soil dry out fully between waterings

Planting & Establishment

• Best Planting Season: Plant during warm, frost-free weather so the roots establish before any cold. In zone 9 plant in spring once frost has passed; in zone 10a from spring through summer; in zone 10b from spring into autumn; and in zones 11 and warmer you can plant year-round.
• How to Plant:
  • Hole Preparation: Dig a hole about twice the width of the root ball on freely draining ground; in rainy sites or heavy soil, plant on a raised bed or mound so water drains away from the base rather than pooling around it.
  • Soil Amendments: Blend coarse sand, grit or pumice into the backfill to sharpen drainage — agaves prefer lean soil, so avoid heavy, water-holding compost.
  • Planting Depth: Set the rosette so its base sits right at soil level; keep the crown above the soil line and never bury it, as a buried crown rots easily.
• Growth Speed & Expectations: Expect slow, steady growth; grown in climates cooler than its native range the leaves develop more slowly and flowering takes several extra years.

Soil, Watering & Drainage Care

• Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Fast drainage is essential to prevent root rot — use a sandy, gritty ground bed or, in containers, a cactus/succulent mix with ample drainage holes and a pot 30–50% larger than the root ball.
• Watering Schedule & Technique:
  • Young / Newly Planted: Water lightly every few days to about every two weeks while roots establish, always letting the soil dry before watering again.
  • Established: Water sparingly, soaking the soil then letting it dry out completely between waterings; err on the side of underwatering.
  • Seasonal Adjustments: Give a little more water in prolonged summer heat and cut back sharply in winter, keeping the plant nearly dry in cold weather.

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

Agave atrovirens is a large, sun-loving succulent rather than a houseplant. The grower does not recommend growing it indoors, and at full size it far outgrows any windowsill – it needs the strong, direct light a room cannot give. It is best enjoyed as a container specimen on a hot, sunny patio, terrace or courtyard, where it can spend years in a big pot while young before it wants more room.

Quick Details

• Container Size: A pot about 30-50% larger than the root ball, potting on to a bigger container as it fills out (the grower’s guidance)
• Indoor Suitability: Not an indoor plant – it needs full sun and grows far too large for a windowsill
• Best Spot: Full sun to light shade – the hotter and brighter, the better
• Soil & Drainage: Gritty, free-draining succulent or cactus mix; plenty of drainage holes are essential
• Watering in Pots: Sparingly – let the mix dry out fully between waterings and never leave it wet

Indoors & On the Windowsill

• Not a houseplant: The grower advises against growing this agave indoors – away from a window the light is far too weak for a desert succulent, and its eventual size rules out a windowsill altogether. Think of it as a plant for a sunny patio, courtyard or the open garden.
• Overwintering: In cold-winter climates a young potted plant is easily wheeled into a bright, frost-free room, porch or greenhouse for the coldest months and returned outdoors once it warms – one of the main reasons to keep it in a pot while it is still a manageable size.
• Safety: Agave sap is a skin and eye irritant and the leaf tips are sharp – keep the plant where children and pets cannot reach it, and handle it with thick gloves.

On a Balcony or Patio

• Light & heat: Give it the sunniest, most open spot on the balcony or patio. Agaves love the reflected heat off walls, railings and paving – just remember that same heat dries pots quickly, so check the mix in the hottest weather.
• Wind & weight: The stiff, spine-tipped leaves shrug off wind, but a top-heavy plant – especially one sending up its tall flower spike – can tip over, so use a heavy, stable pot and keep it clear of walkways where people might brush the sharp tips. Bear in mind a large filled pot is heavy: make sure the balcony can take the load and that drainage runoff won’t be a nuisance below.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

• Pot & drainage: Choose a pot about 30-50% larger than the root ball with strong drainage holes. Terracotta suits agaves well because it breathes and dries fast, whereas glazed or plastic pots hold moisture longer. Skip a standing saucer of water – wet feet quickly cause root rot.
• Potting mix: A gritty, free-draining succulent or cactus mix – an aerated organic base (peat or coir) with plenty of perlite, pumice or coarse sand so water runs straight through.
• Feeding: Agaves are very light feeders – a dilute, low-nitrogen feed once or twice through the growing season is plenty, since nutrients leach from pots faster than from open ground. Don’t overfeed, or the growth turns soft.
• Repotting & refreshing: The grower notes that after a few years the mix drains less freely – refresh it with new gritty mix and pot up a size once the plant fills its container. Handle with thick gloves and take the chance to remove any offsets.

Grower’s Container Tip

• Size up for the pups: The grower advises potting into a container about 30-50% larger than the root ball and moving up to a bigger pot each time the plant fills it – and, once it is fully grown, choosing an even larger pot to leave room for the daughter plants (offsets) it produces around the base.
• Weight the base: Because the flowering stalk can grow tall and heavy, he suggests placing something heavy in the bottom of the pot to keep the whole thing stable and stop it toppling.
• Keep drainage working: Make plenty of drainage holes, and because drainage weakens after a few years, replace the old soil with fresh, free-draining mix.

Bloom & Flower Guide

Quick Details

• Bloom Season: Summer
• Time to First Bloom: Once only, at the very end of a long life — agaves grow for many years (often a decade or more, despite the “century plant” nickname) before their single flowering, after which the rosette dies.
• Flower Appearance: Small, tubular yellow flowers packed densely along a tall, branched flowering stalk (panicle) that can rise several metres above the rosette.
• Edibility: Ornamental — not an edible flower. Agave sap and tissue contain irritant calcium oxalate crystals and saponins, so the plant should not be eaten raw and the sap can irritate skin and eyes.

Detailed Blooming Overview

Agave atrovirens (Maguey verde grande) is monocarpic: it builds up its rosette quietly for many years, then sends up a single, dramatic flowering stalk near the end of its life. Yellow flowers open along the tall, branched flowering stalk in summer, drawing in nectar-feeding wildlife, after which the flowered rosette gradually dies back. By then the plant has usually produced offsets (pups) around its base, so the bloom is a farewell for the rosette but not for the clump.

Flower Characteristics

• Colour & form: Small, tubular, nectar-rich yellow flowers borne in dense clusters.
• Flower stalk: Carried on a tall, branched flowering stalk (panicle) that can rise several metres above the rosette.
• A once-in-a-lifetime display: Each rosette flowers only once, so the bloom is an unmistakable, showy event.

Bloom Care & Thinning

• Managing the bloom: Flowering signals the natural end of the rosette’s life, so there is nothing to thin. You can leave the stalk standing as a striking feature and for wildlife, then cut it down once it has dried.
• Carrying the plant on: Around and after blooming the plant forms offsets (pups) at its base; these take over once the parent rosette dies, and many agaves also produce plantlets (bulbils) on the old flower stalk.
• Pollination & seed set: Pollinated by night-flying moths and bats and by nectar-feeding birds such as hummingbirds; a single stalk can set a great deal of seed.

Bloom Health & Protection

• Agave snout weevil: This weevil (Scyphophorus acupunctatus) is drawn to large, maturing and bolting agaves, laying eggs near the base while grubs tunnel into the core and can collapse the plant. A soil-applied systemic insecticide, together with prompt removal of infested plants, helps limit its spread.
• Crown & heart rot: In damp, poorly drained conditions the heart can rot as the plant matures. Sharp drainage and keeping water from sitting in the crown are the best safeguards, with a copper- or sulfur-based fungicide if rot takes hold.

Pruning, Training & Seasonal Maintenance

Agave atrovirens is one of the largest agaves in cultivation – a rosette of 2–4 m (6–12 ft) leaves that eventually sends up a flower stalk of 8–12 m (24–36 ft). Pruning tolerance is low, as with the rest of the genus, but scale changes everything about how the work is actually done: sanitary leaf removal on a mature specimen means handling multi-meter, heavily armed leaves, and the once-in-a-lifetime removal of the spent flower stalk after its summer bloom is a significant, safety-critical operation rather than a quick trim, since a dried stalk of that height and weight is a real fall hazard.

Quick Pruning & Maintenance Specs

Pruning Tolerance	Low – sanitary leaf/stalk removal only, at large scale
Primary Pruning Window	Year-round, as individual lower leaves fully die back
Secondary Maintenance Window	After the summer bloom, once the 8–12 m stalk has fully dried
Typical Frequency	Occasional leaf removal; the stalk removal happens once, near the end of the plant’s life
Main Objective	Remove dead lower leaves for safety/access; dismantle the spent stalk in controlled stages
Young Plant Priority	None – leave all green leaves
Mature Plant Priority	Remove fully dead lower leaves for clearance; stage-remove the flower stalk after bloom
Best Tool Type	Pruning saw and loppers – hand secateurs are undersized for leaves and stalk sections this large
Avoid Heavy Pruning During	Never cut living leaf tissue; never attempt single-cut removal of the full flower stalk

Pruning by Plant Age & Size

Newly Established

No pruning while young plants establish; at this stage the plant is a manageable size and only mechanically damaged leaf tissue should be trimmed.

Young / Formative

No structural training applies. Site the plant early with its mature 2–4 m spread and eventual 8–12 m bloom stalk in mind – this is not a plant to relocate or work around once mature.

Mature / Established

Remove fully dead lower leaves mainly for safe access around the plant, since a mature specimen’s dead leaf litter at this scale is heavy and sharp. After the summer bloom, dismantle the flower stalk in stages once fully dry.

Seasonal Pruning Schedule

Ongoing Sanitary

Objective: keep dead lower leaves from becoming a hazard underfoot or blocking access. Remove: fully brown, dry leaves only. Do not remove: any leaf with green tissue – on a plant this size that is a lot of lost photosynthetic area and a permanent scar. Flowering impact: none.

Post-Flowering (species dies after bloom)

Once the summer bloom finishes and the stalk has fully dried (this can take a considerable time on a structure this size), remove it from the top down in multiple sections rather than felling it whole – at 8–12 m and fully lignified, an uncontrolled drop can damage the rosette, surrounding offsets, or anyone nearby. For a specimen this large, this stage is realistically a job for someone equipped for large-scale tree/palm-type removal work, not routine hand pruning.

Structural Pruning & Training

No canopy shaping is possible or appropriate. The only ongoing decision is offset management at the base – thin or retain pups depending on whether a single specimen or a colony is wanted, working from outside the rosette’s reach.

Special Growth to Remove

• Fully dead, dry lower leaves – remove at the base for safety and access.
• Spent flower stalk after bloom – remove in stages once fully dried.
• Dying mother rosette after flowering, once offsets are established (retain the offsets).

Container & Small-Space Pruning

Not a realistic container or small-space plant at maturity – a 2–4 m rosette and 8–12 m stalk need in-ground space with substantial clearance. It can be grown in a nursery pot only while young, before it outgrows container culture entirely.

Tools

• pruning_saw – the thick base of large dead leaves and the dried flower-stalk sections
• loppers – mid-size leaf material and upper stalk sections

Tool Hygiene & Disease Risk

Routine for leaf removal; increased risk only if cutting into rot associated with agave snout weevil damage, in which case disinfect the blade before the next cut to avoid spreading soft rot.

Cut Placement & Technique

Cut dead leaves at their base without gouging the stem. Remove the flower stalk from the top downward in sections small enough to lower safely rather than drop. Use heavy gauntlet gloves, long sleeves and eye/face protection – both the leaf spines and the sheer mass of material at this scale are hazards.

Heavy Pruning & Rejuvenation

Not tolerated in any form. There is no rejuvenation pruning for this species – a mature rosette does not regrow cut leaves, and once it flowers (which can take many years to occur) it is finished; the plant’s future is entirely in its offsets.

Post-Pruning Care

Let large cut surfaces air-dry; avoid heavy watering immediately after major stalk removal work. No extra fertilizing tied to pruning. After removing a fallen or cut section, check surrounding offsets and other plants for damage.

Common Pruning Mistakes

• Attempting to fell the entire flower stalk in one cut – a serious safety risk given its height and weight.
• Underestimating the reach and hazard of a leaf rosette this large when doing routine sanitary trimming.
• Cutting green leaves, which cannot regrow on a plant of any size in this genus.

When NOT to Prune

Avoid cutting right after transplant. Do not begin removing the flower stalk until it is completely dry throughout – a partially green, heavier stalk is both harder to control and still provisioning offsets.

Recommended Tools (by task)

• pruning_saw – thick leaf bases and dried flower-stalk sections at this scale
• loppers – smaller leaf and upper-stalk material

Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting

Overview: Grown in the sharp drainage and bright light it evolved for, Agave is a tough, largely trouble-free succulent, and most failures trace back to excess water rather than to any pest. Its handful of serious enemies — above all the agave snout weevil, plus sap-sucking scale, mealybugs and mites — are best kept out by good hygiene, dry-side watering and prompt removal of dead tissue. As a large, monocarpic species, aged or about-to-flower specimens are prime targets for the snout weevil. Manage organically and culturally first; reach for products only when a problem is confirmed.

Quick Troubleshooting Overview

Issue / Pest	Main Symptom	Primary Solution
Agave snout weevil	Sudden collapse; leaves splay flat, soft rotten core, grubs at base	Remove & destroy infested plants; soil drench of a systemic at first sign; keep plants unstressed
Scale & mealybugs	White cottony tufts or brown limpet bumps in leaf axils; sticky honeydew, sooty mould	Wipe off with alcohol swab; spray horticultural oil / insecticidal soap
Mites & thrips	Silvery scarring, corky streaks, cupped or distorted new leaves	Rinse foliage; horticultural oil or sulfur; introduce predatory mites
Crown / root rot	Soft, foul-smelling brown-black centre; leaves pull away easily	Cut to clean tissue, dry out, improve drainage, withhold water
Sunburn / overwatering	Bleached or corky patches; mushy, translucent leaf bases	Acclimatise to sun gradually; water only when soil is fully dry

Common Pests & Management

• Agave Snout Weevil (Scyphophorus acupunctatus): the single most destructive agave pest.
  • Symptoms: a large black weevil chews into the base of the crown to lay eggs; its larvae tunnel through the core, which liquefies. The first visible sign is a mature plant whose leaves suddenly wilt, wrinkle and splay flat to the ground, with a soft, foul, rotting heart full of white grubs. Damage is often terminal by the time it shows.
  • Prevention & Control: keep plants vigorous and unstressed (weevils target damaged or old, about-to-flower plants); avoid wounding the base. Inspect regularly and dig out and destroy collapsed plants together with the grubs and surrounding soil before adults emerge. Where the weevil is established, a preventive soil drench with a labelled systemic insecticide in the warm season protects prized specimens; time it away from flowering to spare pollinators.
• Scale Insects (Diaspididae & Coccidae, e.g. Acutaspis agavis, Hemiberlesia spp.):
  • Symptoms: immobile brown, grey or white limpet-like bumps clustered along leaf undersides, in the tight axils and on the spines; heavy infestations cause yellow blotches, weakened growth and (soft scale) sticky honeydew with black sooty mould. Easily mistaken for natural leaf markings — scrape with a thumbnail to confirm a living insect beneath.
  • Prevention & Control: catch early; dab colonies with a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol, or wipe leaves clean. For wider outbreaks, spray thoroughly with horticultural (mineral) oil or insecticidal soap to smother them, repeating every 1–2 weeks; oils applied in the cool of evening protect beneficial insects. Encourage ladybirds and parasitic wasps.
• Mealybugs (Planococcus citri and root mealybugs, Rhizoecus spp.):
  • Symptoms: soft white cottony masses tucked deep in the leaf axils and around the crown; root mealybugs form a white, mould-like waxy coating on the roots and inner pot wall, sapping vigour with no obvious top growth signs until the plant stalls. Honeydew and sooty mould accompany the foliar kind.
  • Prevention & Control: quarantine new plants and check root balls at potting. Spot-treat clusters with an alcohol-dipped swab; drench soil and spray with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap. For persistent root mealybug, bare-root the plant, wash the roots, and repot in fresh, gritty mix in a clean pot.
• Agave Mite / Eriophyid Mites (Eriophyidae):
  • Symptoms: microscopic mites feeding in the folded, unopened central leaves; as those leaves expand they show permanent corky brown scars, ridges, blistering and puckering, especially near the base. The plant is not killed but is badly disfigured. Damage looks like old thrips or physical scarring but is concentrated on the newest growth.
  • Prevention & Control: isolate affected plants (mites spread on tools and hands). Because they shelter inside the tight crown, drenching sprays of wettable sulfur or horticultural oil into the centre are needed, repeated over several weeks; remove and destroy the worst-scarred leaves. New clean growth confirms control.
• Spider Mites (Tetranychus spp.):
  • Symptoms: mainly on stressed, dusty or indoor plants — fine pale-yellow stippling over the leaf surface, a dull bronzed look and, in bad cases, delicate webbing in the leaf folds. Thrive in hot, dry, still air.
  • Prevention & Control: raise humidity and hose the foliage to knock mites off and break their cycle; keep plants unstressed. Treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil; introduce predatory mites (Phytoseiulus, Amblyseius) under cover.
• Thrips (Frankliniella / Heliothrips spp.):
  • Symptoms: tiny slender insects rasping the leaf surface, leaving silvery-white streaks and flecks speckled with black excrement, sometimes scarring the emerging leaves. More a cosmetic than a lethal problem.
  • Prevention & Control: hang blue sticky traps to monitor; hose down foliage; spray insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, and encourage predatory mites and lacewings.

Diseases & Fungal Issues

• Crown & Root Rot / Bacterial Soft Rot (Phytophthora & Pythium spp.; Pectobacterium/Erwinia soft rot):
  • Symptoms: the great killer of agaves — a soft, water-soaked, blackening rot spreading from the crown or roots, often foul-smelling (bacterial) and slimy; outer leaves yellow, wilt and pull away with almost no resistance. Nearly always follows overwatering, poor drainage, cold-wet soil or a weevil wound.
  • Treatment & Management: prevention is everything — grow in fast-draining gritty mix, water sparingly, and never let water sit in the crown. On early rot, unpot, cut all soft tissue back to clean firm flesh, dust with sulfur or cinnamon, let it callus dry for several days, then repot dry in fresh mix and hold off water. Discard plants that are rotten to the core.
• Anthracnose (Colletotrichum agaves):
  • Symptoms: the most common leaf disease in warm, wet or crowded conditions — sunken oval lesions, at first water-soaked then turning brown to black with a reddish margin, bearing pinkish spore masses in the centre; lesions coalesce and can rot into the crown.
  • Treatment & Management: improve airflow and spacing, keep foliage dry, and avoid overhead watering. Cut off and destroy affected leaves and sterilise tools. Where pressure is high, protect with a copper-based fungicide; do not compost diseased material.
• Fungal Leaf Spots & Blights (Botryosphaeria, Coniothyrium, Cercospora spp.):
  • Symptoms: assorted round to angular grey, tan or black spots and ringed necrotic patches, usually superficial and cosmetic but disfiguring on prized plants; worse in humid, splashy conditions.
  • Treatment & Management: the same cultural controls — dry foliage, good airflow, sanitation of fallen debris — usually suffice; copper or sulfur fungicide only if spread is rapid.

Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems

• Overwatering & Poor Drainage:
  • Cause & Symptoms: by far the commonest cause of a failing agave — soft, translucent, yellowing lower leaves and a mushy base; roots suffocate and rot in wet, airless soil. Container plants in heavy mix or without drainage are most at risk.
  • Correction Strategy: plant in a very free-draining gritty/mineral mix, use pots with drainage, and water only when the soil is bone dry, much less in the cool season. When in doubt, do not water.
• Sunburn / Sunscald:
  • Cause & Symptoms: plants moved abruptly from shade or a greenhouse into full sun develop bleached white or tan, later corky, patches on the sun-facing leaves; the scars are permanent.
  • Correction Strategy: acclimatise gradually over two to three weeks, giving light shade at midday at first; in the hottest climates, a little afternoon shade keeps colour good.
• Cold & Frost Damage:
  • Cause & Symptoms: frost turns leaf tissue water-soaked, then grey-brown and mushy, and cold-wet conditions readily trigger soft rot; tender species are damaged well above freezing.
  • Correction Strategy: keep dry and sheltered through cold spells, move containers under cover, and hold back on trimming frost-hit leaves until all danger passes so they protect the crown.
• Etiolation & Edema:
  • Cause & Symptoms: too little light stretches the rosette pale and loose with weak, elongated leaves; overwatering in dull weather can raise corky edema blisters on the undersides.
  • Correction Strategy: give the brightest position available and reduce watering; new growth returns to tight, firm form once light and dryness are restored.
• Large / Monocarpic Habit:
  • Cause & Symptoms: this is a big, long-lived species that flowers once at maturity and then dies (monocarpic); an about-to-bloom or aged plant is stressed and is exactly what the agave snout weevil seeks out.
  • Correction Strategy: give it room, watch mature specimens closely for weevil signs, and remove offsets to carry the clone on after the parent flowers.

What Helps — Products & Tools

For this succulent, a small kit covers almost everything: horticultural (mineral) oil and insecticidal soap for scale, mealybugs, mites and thrips; wettable sulfur for eriophyid mites and as a wound dust; rubbing alcohol on a swab for spot-treating; a copper-based fungicide for anthracnose and leaf spots; blue/yellow sticky traps to monitor thrips; and, only where the agave snout weevil is a proven local threat, a labelled systemic soil drench used preventively on valued plants (kept away from flowering to protect pollinators). Sharp gritty mix and a bright, dry site are the best “products” of all.

Propagation Guide

Agave atrovirens is most reliably propagated by separating the daughter plants (offsets/pups) that form around the base of the rosette; leaf/basal cuttings and seed both work but are slower and less predictable, and given this species’ very large eventual size, offsets also give a head start over seed. Seed-grown plants are generally true to the species, though a variegated form would need to be propagated vegetatively, and overall the species is easy to propagate by division.

Quick Propagation Specs

Best Propagation Method	Division of offsets/daughter plants
Alternative Methods	Leaf or basal cuttings; seed
Propagation Difficulty	Easy (by offsets); Moderate by leaf cutting or seed
Seed True-to-Type	Usually true-to-type for the species; a variegated form would not come true from seed
Vegetative True-to-Type	Yes
Best Propagation Season	Late spring to early summer outdoors for cuttings/offsets (can be done indoors any time); seed best sown spring to summer
Seed Germination Time	Typically a few weeks, often uneven
Cutting Rooting Time	A few weeks to about a month
Germination Temperature	Warm, roughly 21–27°C (70–80°F)
Seed Sowing Depth	Very shallow, about 0.5cm (0.25in) or surface-sown

Growing from Seed

Seed Handling & Viability

Sow reasonably fresh seed where possible; for short-term storage keep it in a dry, dark spot at room temperature.

Sowing Season

Spring to summer is the standard window; autumn or winter sowing is possible in warm climates.

Sowing Depth & Orientation

Sow shallowly, barely covering the seed (about 0.5cm/0.25in), in a sandy, well-drained, well-ventilated mix.

Germination Conditions

Keep the mix lightly moist without letting it dry out or turn soggy, in a bright, sunny spot.

Germination Time

Germination is usually staggered and can take several weeks.

Seedling Care

Grow seedlings on in bright light with lightly moist, well-ventilated, free-draining soil, keeping in mind this is a slow-growing, eventually very large species. It blooms in summer, sending up a towering flower stalk, and the rosette dies back afterward, so seed is collected around that time.

Leaf & Root Cuttings

Cut a leaf, or cut at the base of a leaf or young stem, by hand rather than with a blade, then let the cut callus over for at least 24 hours (longer for a thicker cut section) before planting. Set the cutting into well-drained soil and water every few days to two weeks, letting the surface dry between waterings without letting it fully dry out; rooting usually begins after a few weeks to about a month. Late spring to early summer is the best outdoor timing, though it can be done indoors at any time of year.

Division, Offsets, Pups & Suckers

This agave forms daughter plants (offsets/pups) around the base, the method needed to keep a variegated form true to the parent since seedlings do not reliably retain variegation. The rosette is monocarpic – it dies after flowering – so the surrounding pups carry the plant forward rather than the flowered rosette. To separate an offset or transplant a mature plant, wash the soil away from the roots with water, keep as much of the root mass intact as possible, and water lightly every day after transplanting rather than one heavy soaking, taking care not to overwater.