Dahlia tiger tiv

Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering

Overview: This dahlia is a sun-loving tuberous perennial that grows best in rich, loose, well-draining soil in a warm, bright spot. It needs steady, moderate moisture through the growing season, but its tubers rot easily in cold, waterlogged ground, so sharp drainage is the single most important condition to get right.

Quick Care Requirements

Requirement	Ideal Condition
Planting Season	Spring, after all danger of frost has passed (mid-spring in colder regions)
Growth Rate	Moderate
Soil Type	Rich, loose, well-draining soil
Water Need	Moderate – keep evenly moist in active growth, never waterlogged

Planting & Establishment

• Best Planting Season: Dahlia tubers are frost-tender, so plant in spring once the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed; in colder regions wait until mid-spring. In warm hardiness zones (roughly 8–11) tubers can be left in the ground year-round, while in colder zones (about 2–7) they are lifted after the season, stored dry over winter, and replanted the following spring.
• How to Plant:
  • Hole Preparation: Dig a hole a little wider than the tuber and set the tuber on its side with the growing eye facing up, about 10–15 cm deep in loosened, free-draining soil.
  • Soil Amendments: Work plenty of compost or well-rotted organic matter into the bed to enrich it and improve drainage; avoid heavy, high-nitrogen feeding, which drives leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
  • Planting Depth: Plant the tuber shallowly, with the crown and growing eye just below the surface – deep, wet planting encourages rot. Hold off on heavy watering until the shoots emerge.
• Growth Speed & Expectations: A moderate grower that, once shoots emerge, bulks up steadily through the warm season to reach roughly 0.3–1.5 m tall (sometimes more) by maturity.

Soil, Watering & Drainage Care

• Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Dahlias must have free-draining soil – in heavy clay, raise the bed or dig in grit and compost to keep water moving. In containers, use a quality free-draining potting mix rather than garden soil and make sure the pot drains freely, since soggy conditions quickly rot the tubers.
• Watering Schedule & Technique:
  • Young / Newly Planted: Water sparingly right after planting until shoots appear, then keep the soil lightly moist as the plant establishes.
  • Established: Once growing strongly, water deeply and regularly, letting the top few centimetres of soil dry between waterings – a thorough soak two to three times a week suits an established plant better than frequent shallow sprinklings.
  • Seasonal Adjustments: Increase watering in hot, dry spells during full growth, and cut right back as growth dies down in autumn; tubers left in the ground over winter need dry, well-drained conditions to avoid rot.

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

Dahlia ‘Tiger Tiv’ is a sun-loving, tuberous perennial that makes a fine patio or balcony container plant but is not a houseplant – it needs full sun and open air to flower well. Grown in a roomy, free-draining pot it performs superbly, and in cold climates the pot makes it easy to lift and overwinter the tubers.

Quick Details

• Container Size: A roomy pot to suit a 0.3-1.5 m plant; give taller cultivars a deep, stable container
• Indoor Suitability: Not a houseplant – it needs full sun; keep it outdoors while in growth
• Best Spot: Full sun on a patio or balcony, sheltered from strong wind
• Soil & Drainage: Aerated, organic-rich mix that drains freely
• Watering in Pots: Average water – keep evenly moist but never waterlogged; pots dry fast in sun

Indoors & On the Windowsill

• Houseplant limits: The grower does not rate dahlias as houseplants – indoor light is far too weak for these full-sun bloomers, and they grow tall and leggy away from a window.
• Overwintering indoors: In cold-winter climates this is the main reason to pot them: after the top growth dies back, move the tuber-filled pot into a frost-free spot, or lift and store the tubers dry until the warm season returns.

On a Balcony or Patio

• Light & wind: Give it the sunniest position; on an exposed balcony stake the stems and shelter from wind, as tall dahlias snap easily.
• Practicalities: Reflected heat from walls and railings dries pots quickly – check moisture daily in hot spells – and mind the weight and drainage runoff of a large, wet container.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

• Pot & drainage: Use a pot with strong drainage holes and skip a standing-water saucer, which invites root rot. Terracotta breathes and dries faster, while glazed or plastic pots hold moisture longer.
• Potting mix: A well-aerated, organic-rich medium – a quality potting mix, or peat/coir loosened with perlite or vermiculite.
• Feeding: Potted plants run through their soil faster as nutrients leach away with each watering, so feed a little more often than plants in open ground. A lower-nitrogen feed as buds form encourages flowers over leaf.
• Repotting & storage: Refresh the mix each season; lift and divide congested tubers before replanting into fresh mix.

Bloom & Edible Flower Guide

Quick Details

• Bloom Season: Summer to autumn – from mid-summer until the first frost (starting in spring where winters are frost-free).
• Time to First Bloom: In its first season – roughly 8 to 12 weeks after the tubers are planted out into warm soil.
• Flower Appearance: Orange with a little red at the centre, decorative (fully double) form.
• Edibility: Edible – the ray petals can be eaten (remove the bitter white petal base); the flavour is mild and varies by cultivar.

Detailed Blooming Overview

Dahlias are tender, tuberous perennials from the highlands of Mexico, grown as much for the vase as for the border. This cultivar is a decorative (fully double) type: each bloom is a fully double bloom of broad, evenly arranged ray petals with no visible central disc. Planted as a tuber once the soil has warmed after the last frost, it flowers in its very first season and keeps producing from mid-summer right through to the first hard frost. In mild, frost-free areas (its comfortable range is roughly hardiness zones 8 to 11) the tubers can stay in the ground and flower over a long season; where winters are colder they are lifted and stored frost-free, then replanted in spring.

Flower Characteristics

• Colour & form: Orange with a little red in the middle, flowers multi petals and petal shape ovate to elliptic with pointed top and wider base.
• Bloom type: decorative (fully double) – a fully double bloom of broad, evenly arranged ray petals with no visible central disc.
• Fully double: the packed petals largely hide the central florets, so these blooms offer pollinators less than open, single types.
• Long-lasting: a classic cut flower that also holds well in the border.

Bloom Care & Thinning

• Deadheading: remove faded blooms regularly – spent flowers form rounded seed heads while unopened buds stay firm and round, so snap off the finished ones to keep new buds coming.
• Disbudding (optional): for fewer but larger, show-quality blooms, pinch out the two side buds below each main bud.
• Support: stake taller, large-flowered plants early so the heavy blooms do not snap or splay in wind and rain.
• Through the season: keep plants watered and fed while in flower; in cold-winter areas lift and store the tubers once the first frost has blackened the foliage.

Bloom Health & Protection

• Aphids: colonies on buds and soft new growth can distort blooms and spread virus – a strong jet of water, insecticidal soap or neem oil keeps them in check.
• Earwigs: they chew petals and buds at night; an upturned, straw-filled pot set on a cane makes a simple overnight trap to reduce numbers.
• Powdery mildew: a white bloom on the leaves in crowded, late-season plantings – good spacing and airflow help, and a sulphur-based fungicide can be used if it takes hold.

Pruning, Training & Seasonal Maintenance

Dahlia ‘Tiger Tiv’ is a tuberous herbaceous perennial with only moderate, mostly seasonal pruning needs. Its objectives are prolonging bloom through deadheading and, in cold-winter areas, cutting the plant back before the tuber is lifted for storage. As a Decorative-group cultivar (full, multi-petalled orange blooms), it responds well to optional disbudding when larger cut-flower blooms are wanted. Pruning tolerance is lowest during active flowering, since removing whole stems then costs that season’s blooms, and highest once dormant.

Quick Pruning & Maintenance Specs

Pruning Tolerance	Moderate
Primary Pruning Window	Winter (foliage blackened by frost) or end of active growth in frost-free areas
Secondary Maintenance Window	Spring pinch of young growth; ongoing summer deadheading and optional disbudding
Typical Frequency	Deadhead weekly through bloom season; one full cutback at season’s end
Main Objective	Prolong bloom, optionally size up blooms for cutting; prepare tuber for dormancy
Young Plant Priority	Pinch the growing tip to force branching
Mature Plant Priority	Deadhead; disbud side buds if larger blooms wanted; stake against flower weight
Best Tool Type	Precision snips / bypass secateurs
Avoid Heavy Pruning During	Active bud set and bloom

Pruning by Plant Age & Size

Newly Established

Remove only damaged or broken growth from planting; hold off pinching until several sets of true leaves have formed.

Young / Formative

Pinch out the central growing tip once the plant has 3-4 pairs of leaves, to force branching from lower leaf axils. Stake taller stems at planting, since this cultivar can reach up to about 1.5m and the fuller Decorative blooms add weight.

Mature / Established

Deadhead spent flowerheads to just above the next leaf set or lateral bud to extend bloom. For exhibition-size or cut-flower blooms, pinch out the two smaller side buds that form below the terminal bud on a stem, leaving one bud to develop into a larger flower; skip this step if maximum flower count rather than size is preferred.

Seasonal Pruning Schedule

• Summer canopy management: pinch young growth early in the season; deadhead continuously and disbud selectively as buds form — neither reduces the next flush, since blooms form on new growth throughout the season.
• Dormant/Winter: after frost blackens the foliage in cold climates, cut top growth back to a short stub about 10-15cm above the tuber before lifting; in frost-free areas continue removing spent flowers and dead leaves through winter instead of a hard cutback.

Special Growth to Remove

• Spent flower stems, deadheaded to the next node.
• Side buds below the terminal bud, removed if larger single blooms are wanted for cutting.
• Dead or yellowing foliage, and full top growth at season’s end in cold climates.

Container & Small-Space Pruning

Deadhead more frequently in containers, since limited root volume concentrates bloom cycles; stake even average-height plants, and skip disbudding if the priority is more (smaller) blooms rather than a few large ones in a confined space.

Tools

• Precision snips — deadheading, pinching, and disbudding.
• Bypass secateurs — thicker end-of-season stems before lifting the tuber.

Tool Hygiene & Disease Risk

Routine — clean, sharp tools are sufficient. Avoid cutting into the tuber itself, and let the cut stub dry briefly before lifting to reduce rot entry points.

Cut Placement & Technique

Deadhead and disbud just above a node, not flush with the stem. When cutting back at season’s end, leave a short stub above the tuber rather than cutting at soil level.

Heavy Pruning & Rejuvenation

The full end-of-season cutback functions as this plant’s heavy pruning — expected and necessary before lifting, since entirely new stems regrow from the tuber the following spring.

Post-Pruning Care

Let the cut stub dry a day or two before lifting to reduce rot risk. Avoid feeding after the seasonal cutback; keep nitrogen modest through the season, since the source data notes excess nitrogen causes flowering problems.

Common Pruning Mistakes

• Skipping the early pinch, producing a single leggy stem with fewer blooms.
• Disbudding too late, after side buds have already drawn significant energy.
• Leaving spent blooms too long in humid weather, inviting gray mold on the dense flowerheads.

When NOT to Prune

Do not cut back green, still-photosynthesizing top growth in autumn — wait for frost to blacken the foliage so the tuber finishes storing energy. Do not disbud or deadhead so heavily during peak bloom that unopened buds are lost.

Recommended Tools (by task)

• precision_snips — deadheading, pinching, and disbudding.
• bypass_secateurs — thicker end-of-season stem cutback before lifting the tuber.
• soft_ties_stakes — staking taller, heavier-flowered stems.

Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting

Overview: Dahlias are vigorous, tuberous perennials that are generally trouble-free once established, but their soft young shoots and lush, sugar-rich blooms attract a predictable set of visitors — above all slugs, snails and earwigs, with sap-suckers such as aphids and thrips acting as virus carriers. The soundest approach is cultural and organic first: keep plants strong and open, patrol at dusk, protect emerging shoots, encourage beneficial insects, and reserve any spray for genuine outbreaks. Because dahlias are frost-tender and store as tubers over winter, clean handling and dry, airy storage prevent most of the serious losses.

Quick Troubleshooting Overview

Issue / Pest	Main Symptom	Primary Solution
Slugs & snails	Young shoots and leaves shredded overnight; slime trails	Evening patrols, barriers and traps; iron-phosphate bait if needed
Earwigs	Ragged notches and holes chewed in petals and young foliage	Rolled-cardboard / inverted-pot traps emptied each morning
Aphids	Sticky honeydew, curled shoot tips, sooty mould; spreads virus	Wash off, encourage ladybirds; insecticidal soap for heavy infestations
Thrips	Silvery flecking and distorted buds; can transmit spotted wilt	Blue sticky traps, remove weeds; predatory mites in protected crops
Powdery mildew	White powdery coating on late-season leaves	Improve airflow and spacing; sulfur or potassium-bicarbonate spray
Tuber storage rot	Soft, mouldy or shrivelled tubers over winter	Lift after frost, dry and cure, store cool, dry and airy

Common Pests & Management

• Slugs & snails (Deroceras reticulatum, Cornu aspersum):
  • Symptoms: The number-one dahlia pest, especially on newly sprouted tubers and young shoots. Look for irregular holes and shredded, stripped shoots overnight, with tell-tale silvery slime trails; damage is worst in damp, mild weather and near mulch or dense planting.
  • Prevention & Control: Patrol at dusk or after rain and remove by hand; clear hiding places (boards, debris, loose mulch) near emerging plants. Ring young shoots with grit, crushed shell or copper tape, and set beer or yeast traps. Encourage frogs, ground beetles and birds. If pressure is high, scatter iron-phosphate (ferric) bait sparingly — it is safe around pets and wildlife.
• European earwig (Forficula auricularia):
  • Symptoms: The signature pest of dahlia flowers. Earwigs feed at night, chewing ragged notches and holes in petals and tender young leaves, then hide by day deep in the blooms or under debris. Damage on open flowers is often mistaken for caterpillar feeding — check by torchlight after dark.
  • Prevention & Control: Trap them: stuff straw or rolled corrugated cardboard into inverted pots on canes, or lay rolled newspaper among the plants, and empty the sheltering earwigs each morning. Keep the base clear of debris. They are also useful aphid predators, so trap-and-relocate rather than blanket-spray; only spot-treat if flower damage becomes severe.
• Aphids (Myzus persicae, Aphis fabae):
  • Symptoms: Colonies of green or black soft-bodied insects cluster on shoot tips, buds and leaf undersides, causing curling and stickiness. The real danger is indirect: aphids are the main vectors of dahlia mosaic and other viruses, and their honeydew fuels black sooty mould.
  • Prevention & Control: Inspect growing tips regularly and dislodge small colonies with a strong jet of water or by finger-wiping. Encourage ladybirds, lacewings and hoverflies; avoid excess nitrogen, which produces soft, aphid-prone growth. For heavier infestations use insecticidal soap or a light horticultural/neem oil, spraying in the evening to protect pollinators.
• Western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis):
  • Symptoms: Tiny slender insects that rasp leaves and petals, leaving silvery flecking, pale streaks and distorted, discoloured buds. Most important as the vector of tomato spotted wilt virus, so persistent thrips warrant attention beyond the cosmetic damage.
  • Prevention & Control: Hang blue sticky traps to monitor and reduce numbers, and keep the bed weed-free to remove alternative hosts. Encourage predatory mites and minute pirate bugs. In protected or nursery settings, release biological controls; spot-treat bad outbreaks with insecticidal soap or spinosad, rotating products and sparing flowering heads.
• Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae):
  • Symptoms: A hot, dry-weather problem. Leaves take on a fine pale stippling, then bronze and dry from the base upward; fine webbing appears on undersides and shoot tips in bad cases. Growth is checked and flowering suffers.
  • Prevention & Control: Mites thrive in dusty, drought-stressed conditions, so keep plants well watered and occasionally hose down foliage to raise humidity and knock off colonies. Encourage predatory mites and other natural enemies. Treat persistent outbreaks with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, ensuring thorough coverage of leaf undersides.
• Capsid (plant) bugs (Lygocoris pabulinus, Lygus spp.):
  • Symptoms: Sap-sucking bugs feed on shoot tips and developing buds, injecting toxic saliva. Affected leaves emerge tattered with many small ragged holes and a puckered, distorted shape, and buds may abort or open lopsided (“blind” or one-sided blooms).
  • Prevention & Control: Damage is usually intermittent and rarely fatal. Keep surrounding weeds and rough herbage down to reduce shelter, and tolerate light injury. Encourage general predators; for repeated serious damage, an evening application of an approved contact insecticide to the growing tips can be used, protecting pollinators.
• Caterpillars & cutworms (e.g. Agrotis segetum, various noctuids):
  • Symptoms: Caterpillars chew larger irregular holes in leaves and buds, leaving dark frass. Cutworms (soil-dwelling moth larvae) are more damaging early on, severing young shoots and stems at ground level so plants topple or fail to emerge.
  • Prevention & Control: Hand-pick caterpillars in the evening and check for cutworms in the top few centimetres of soil around felled shoots. Protect transplants with collars pushed into the soil, hoe to expose pupae, and encourage birds and ground beetles. For persistent leaf caterpillars, a targeted Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) spray is selective and pollinator-safe.

Diseases & Fungal Issues

• Powdery mildew (Golovinomyces cichoracearum):
  • Symptoms: A white to greyish powdery coating on upper leaf surfaces, typically arriving late in the season on crowded, stressed plants. Heavily coated leaves yellow and die back early, weakening the plant and its tubers.
  • Treatment & Management: Space plants for good airflow, avoid drought stress, and don’t over-feed with nitrogen. Remove and bin affected foliage. At first signs, spray sulfur, potassium bicarbonate or a milk-based solution; repeat as needed and clear all debris at season’s end.
• Grey mould / botrytis (Botrytis cinerea):
  • Symptoms: Fuzzy grey-brown mould on ageing or rain-damaged blooms, plus soft brown spotting and rot of petals and buds in cool, wet, still conditions. Dense double and dinnerplate flowers are most at risk because they trap moisture.
  • Treatment & Management: Deadhead spent and spotted blooms promptly and improve air movement by proper spacing and staking. Avoid overhead watering late in the day. Remove infected material to reduce spores; fungicide is rarely justified in the garden if sanitation is good.
• Dahlia mosaic & tomato spotted wilt (Dahlia mosaic virus; Tomato spotted wilt orthotospovirus):
  • Symptoms: Viral infections show as yellow mosaic mottling, vein-banding or pale patterns on leaves, stunting, distortion and, with spotted wilt, ringspots and dark streaks with poor flowering. Spread by aphids (mosaic) and thrips (spotted wilt), and carried on in infected tubers.
  • Treatment & Management: There is no cure — rogue out and destroy plainly infected plants to protect the rest. Control aphids and thrips, keep weeds down, propagate only from healthy stock, and disinfect knives between plants when taking cuttings or dividing tubers.
• Verticillium & Fusarium wilt (Verticillium dahliae, Fusarium oxysporum):
  • Symptoms: Soil-borne fungi that invade the water-conducting tissue. Foliage yellows and wilts — often one side or lower leaves first — then browns and collapses despite moist soil; cut stems may show darkened internal streaking. Verticillium dahliae was in fact first described on dahlia.
  • Treatment & Management: No chemical cure. Remove and destroy affected plants and their tubers; do not compost them. Do not replant dahlias in the same infected ground — rotate to a fresh site or use clean containers, keep drainage good, and start with healthy tubers.
• Tuber storage rot (Pectobacterium/Erwinia soft rot, Fusarium & Penicillium):
  • Symptoms: The main over-winter loss. Lifted tubers turn soft, slimy and foul-smelling (bacterial soft rot) or develop dry, sunken, mouldy patches in storage; damaged or immature tubers rot first.
  • Treatment & Management: Lift carefully after the first frost, remove soil, trim damaged tissue and cure/dry the tubers for a few days before storing. Keep them cool but frost-free, dry and airy in barely-moist media, and check periodically, removing any that begin to rot.

Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems

• Tuber rot in wet, cold soil:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Dahlias hate waterlogging. Tubers planted too early into cold, sodden ground — or left in heavy wet soil over winter in mild areas — simply rot before or after sprouting, giving gaps and no growth.
  • Correction Strategy: Plant only once the soil has warmed and drained, into free-draining soil improved with compost or grit; raise beds or use containers on heavy ground. Avoid overwatering un-sprouted tubers, and in cold-winter regions lift and store rather than leaving tubers in the ground.
• Frost blackening:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Dahlias are frost-tender. A first frost blackens and collapses all top growth almost overnight, and an unexpected late frost will cut down tender young shoots.
  • Correction Strategy: Plant out only after frost risk has passed and protect early shoots with fleece if a late frost threatens. Treat the first hard frost as the signal to cut down and lift tubers for storage in cold climates, or to mulch heavily where they are left in the ground.
• Failure to bloom (all leaves, few flowers):
  • Cause & Symptoms: Lush leafy plants that produce few or no flowers usually signal too much nitrogen, too little sun, or a lack of deadheading. Dahlias need full sun and a feed higher in potassium to flower well.
  • Correction Strategy: Site in full sun, ease off high-nitrogen feeds and switch to a higher-potassium (tomato-type) feed as buds form. Deadhead continually to keep new blooms coming, and pinch out the growing tip early to build a bushier, more floriferous plant.
• Weak stems, flopping & staking / disbudding needs:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Tall varieties and large-flowered types carry heavy blooms on brittle, hollow stems that snap or flop in wind and rain, and unthinned plants produce many smaller, congested blooms.
  • Correction Strategy: Stake at planting so canes or a support grid are in place before growth is tall, and tie in loosely as plants rise. Disbud (remove the two side buds below each main bud) for larger, cleaner show blooms, and pinch early for sturdier, well-branched plants.

What Helps — Products & Tools

For dahlias the mainstays are physical and organic: slug/snail traps and iron-phosphate (ferric) bait, earwig traps (rolled cardboard or straw-filled pots), copper tape and grit barriers, blue and yellow sticky traps for thrips and monitoring, and a hand sprayer for insecticidal soap, light horticultural or neem oil, and Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) for caterpillars. On the disease side, keep sulfur or potassium-bicarbonate fungicide for powdery mildew, practise strict sanitation for botrytis and viruses, and rely on good stakes, plant ties and a sharp, disinfected knife for staking, disbudding and clean tuber division. Sound tuber storage (dry, airy, frost-free) is the single best insurance against winter losses.

Propagation Guide

For Dahlia tiger tiv, tuber (clump) division is the most dependable way to propagate the plant true to its orange, red-centered Decorative-type blooms, since seedlings grown from its seed will not match the parent. Division is easy for home growers, whereas seed is chiefly useful for hybridizing new forms rather than reproducing this cultivar.

Quick Propagation Specs

Best Propagation Method	Tuber (clump) division
Alternative Methods	Basal stem cuttings from sprouted tubers; seed (breeding/novelty only)
Propagation Difficulty	Easy
Seed True-to-Type	No – hybrid offspring vary
Vegetative True-to-Type	Yes
Best Propagation Season	Spring, just before replanting (or at autumn/winter lifting after foliage is cut back)
Seed Germination Time	Typically 1–3 weeks under warm conditions
Cutting Rooting Time	Typically 2–3 weeks under warm, humid conditions
Germination Temperature	About 18–21°C (65–70°F)
Seed Sowing Depth	Shallow, just covering the seed

Growing from Seed

Seed Handling & Viability

Best treated as a breeding exercise only, since this hybrid cultivar’s own multi-petaled Decorative form will not come back exactly from seed.

Sowing Season

Sow indoors in spring, ahead of the last frost, to have seedlings ready for planting out once it warms.

Germination Conditions & Time

Warm, evenly moist medium; expect a few weeks to germinate, sometimes unevenly.

Stem Cuttings

Cutting Type

Basal shoots taken from new growth on an early-started tuber.

Best Timing

Late winter into early spring, once the stored tuber sprouts.

Cutting Preparation

Take a shoot with a small piece of the tuber crown if possible, or cut just above a node, and remove the lowest leaves.

Rooting Setup

Light, well-drained, moist propagation mix kept humid until rooted.

Rooting Hormone

Optional – can help but is not required.

Rooting Time

Roots typically form within a couple of weeks under warm, humid conditions.

Rhizomes, Tubers, Bulbs & Corms

Tuber (clump) division is the standard way to multiply this Dahlia true to its color and form. In cold-winter areas the clump is lifted once the foliage is cut back at season’s end and stored over winter; in mild areas it can simply be lifted and divided as growth resumes. Well-drained storage and soil matter, as the site’s own notes flag rotten bulbs as a common problem.

Divide just before spring replanting, or at autumn lifting before storage. Each division must include a piece of the old stem base (crown) with at least one visible eye or bud, since the tuberous roots themselves lack their own growing points. Discard soft or rotten sections, let cuts dry briefly, and plant with the eye upward.