Finger Lime tree

Care Guide: Planting, Soil & Watering

Overview: The finger lime is a subtropical to mediterranean evergreen citrus that grows best in full sun and deep, well-draining loamy soil enriched with organic matter. It wants steady, even moisture — more while the fruit are swelling — but sharp drainage, because citrus roots rot in soggy ground.

Quick Care Requirements

Requirement	Ideal Condition
Planting Season	Warm season — spring in cooler zones, spring or autumn in mild zones, year-round in frost-free zones (11+)
Growth Rate	Slow to Moderate
Soil Type	Deep, well-draining, loamy, organic-rich
Soil pH	6.0–7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral)
Water Need	Moderate — keep evenly moist in the fruiting season, letting the surface dry between waterings

Planting & Establishment

• Best Planting Season: Plant in the warm season: spring–summer in zone 9b–10a, spring–autumn in 10b, and all year in 11+; avoid the hottest summer days. Avoid planting during extreme heat or cold, which can stress or even kill a young tree.
• How to Plant:
  • Hole Preparation: Dig a hole as deep as the current root ball plus an extra 20–40% in width.
  • Soil Amendments: Mix organic matter, humus or compost and dried leaves into the backfill; after planting, mulch to keep the soil moist. Where the summer sun is harsh, whitewash the exposed trunk to prevent sunscald.
  • Planting Depth: Loosen the root ball a little and set the tree so the root collar and the graft union sit at or just above the surrounding soil level — never bury the trunk. Firm the soil gently so the tree is stable but not compacted, and stake it with a cane if it is not steady.
• Growth Speed & Expectations: A slow-to-moderate grower; a grafted tree typically begins bearing in about 2–3 years.

Soil, Watering & Drainage Care

• Soil Mix & Drainage Needs: Sharp drainage is essential — citrus will not tolerate wet feet. In the ground, plant in loamy, organic-rich soil; in containers use a free-draining potting mix (peat-based with perlite or a little lava grit) with plenty of drainage holes, and never let water stand in the saucer beyond the same day.
• Watering Schedule & Technique:
  • Young / Newly Planted: For the first two weeks water every day, preferably in the morning, to settle the roots and keep the soil evenly moist.
  • Established: Water deeply, then let the top few centimetres of soil dry before watering again; keep the soil evenly moist through the fruiting season so the fruit do not dry out or split.
  • Seasonal Adjustments: Increase watering in hot, dry weather and while the fruit are swelling; cut back in cool, wet winter conditions to avoid waterlogging.

Growing in Pots, Balconies & Indoors

The finger lime (Citrus australasica) is a 1.5-6 m (5-20 ft) evergreen citrus – too large for a windowsill at full size, but an excellent container and patio tree while young or grown as a grafted dwarf. The grower doesn’t class it as a room houseplant: indoor light is usually too weak for good fruiting, though a very sunny window can carry a dwarf tree.

Quick Details

• Container Size: Don’t overpot – start close to the root-ball size and step up every few years; grow a grafted dwarf to keep it manageable.
• Indoor Suitability: Not a deep-room houseplant; a grafted dwarf can grow and slowly fruit at a very sunny window.
• Best Spot: Full sun – a bright patio, balcony, or the sunniest window; half shade is tolerated but gives fewer fruits.
• Soil & Drainage: Free-draining, aerated mix (potting soil, or peat/coir with perlite); never leave the pot standing in water.
• Watering in Pots: Keep evenly moist and water more through the fruiting period so fruit doesn’t dry or split; pots dry fast, but avoid waterlogging.

Indoors & On the Windowsill

• Houseplant reality: The grower doesn’t rate it a room houseplant – indoor light is usually too weak for good fruiting.
• Windowsill growing: Grow a grafted dwarf at the brightest, sunniest window, away from heaters and air vents; expect fruit to take longer than outdoors.
• Overwintering: In cold-winter areas a potted tree can spend winter in a bright, cool but frost-free spot indoors and return outside once frost has passed – a main reason to keep citrus potted.
• Safety: Citrus foliage and peel oils can mildly upset cats and dogs, and stems may be thorny – keep pets from chewing the plant. The ripe fruit itself is edible.

On a Balcony or Patio

• Light & warmth: Give it the sunniest, most sheltered spot; walls and paving reflect heat and dry pots fast, so check moisture often in hot weather, and shelter young trees from strong wind.
• Practicalities: Use a stable pot heavy enough not to topple, and let drainage water escape freely.

Choosing the Pot, Soil & Long-Term Care

• Pot & drainage: Strong drainage holes are essential; skip a standing saucer of water to prevent root rot. Terracotta breathes and dries faster; glazed or plastic holds moisture longer.
• Potting mix: Well-aerated – potting soil, or peat/coir with perlite or vermiculite.
• Feeding: Potted citrus need feeding more often than ground trees as nutrients leach with each watering; use a citrus feed through the growing season.
• Repotting: Refresh the mix and pot up every few years – the grower advises against leaving old, spent soil in the pot; keep a dwarf in shape with light root and top pruning.

Bloom & Edible Flower Guide

Quick Details

• Bloom Season: Spring into summer
• Time to First Bloom: A grafted plant usually begins flowering within its first few years
• Flower Appearance: Small white flowers with yellow-green stamens, the buds tinted purple
• Edibility: The fragrant white blossoms are edible and aromatic

Detailed Blooming Overview

The Australian finger lime is a slender, thorny citrus whose small white flowers, opening from purple-tinted buds, appear from spring into summer. Bees do the pollinating, and thinning in the early years helps a young plant establish before it carries a full crop.

Flower Characteristics

• Small white flowers with yellow-green stamens.
• Buds tinted purple.

Bloom Care & Thinning

• Thinning: In the first years, thinning the flowers helps a young plant build strength.
• Pollination: Pollinated by bees.

Bloom Health & Protection

• Aphids and thrips: These can gather on the tender buds and new growth; a strong jet of water, insecticidal soap or neem oil keeps them down. Avoid spraying open blossoms so visiting bees are not harmed.

Pruning, Training & Seasonal Maintenance

Finger Lime is a naturally shrubby, often multi-stemmed small tree (1.5–6 m) – an Australian understory citrus that does not need to be forced into a single-trunk form the way most cultivated citrus are. It tolerates moderate pruning; the objective is to manage its natural thicket-forming tendency (thin excess basal stems rather than fight the habit), keep the very thorny growth accessible for hand-picking the caviar-like fruit, and maintain airflow through dense growth. The safest window is end of winter into early spring, before the spring–summer bloom.

Quick Pruning & Maintenance Specs

Pruning Tolerance	Moderate
Primary Pruning Window	End of winter – beginning of spring
Secondary Maintenance Window	Sanitary removal of dead wood any time
Typical Frequency	Annual structural pass, plus periodic basal-stem thinning
Main Objective	Manage natural multi-stem/thicket habit; keep thorny fruiting wood pickable
Young Plant Priority	Select well-spaced main stems; thin early flowers
Mature Plant Priority	Thin crowded basal growth and dense interior wood
Best Tool Type	Bypass secateurs, loppers
Avoid Heavy Pruning During	Spring–summer bloom and the extended autumn–spring fruit hold

Pruning by Plant Age & Size

Newly Established

Remove only damaged growth; the plant is thorny and its own difficulty notes flag thorns as a handling issue even at the establishment stage.

Young / Formative

Rather than training a single central leader, select 2–4 well-spaced main stems from the naturally multi-stemmed growth habit and remove the rest – this works with the species’ native form instead of against it. Thin the first flowers so the young plant isn’t forced to carry fruit before its stems are established.

Mature / Established

Periodically thin new basal shoots that thicken the thicket beyond what’s useful, and remove crossing/dense interior wood so thorny branches carrying fruit stay reachable and don’t tangle.

Seasonal Pruning Schedule

Pre-Growth / Early Spring

Objective: thin the stem base and open the canopy before bloom. Remove: dead wood, excess basal stems beyond the selected framework, and crossing growth. Do not remove: stems still holding fruit, which this species can carry from autumn all the way to the end of spring. Expected response: renewed basal shoots (some of which can be selected as replacement stems) and a fresh flowering flush. Flowering impact: minimal, since the cut precedes bloom.

Flowering & Fruiting Wood

Finger lime flowers in spring/summer on current growth, and the cylindrical “caviar” fruit that follows is unusually long-holding – it can remain on the tree from autumn harvest right through to the end of spring, so growers must watch for fruit drying out or rotting on the tree rather than assuming it needs immediate picking. Because of this extended hold, avoid disturbing fruiting branches for most of the year outside the short end-of-winter window.

Structural Pruning & Training

The defining structural task is managing the natural multi-stem/thicket habit: select and retain well-placed main stems, remove excess basal growth, and thin crossing interior wood. Height and spread control matter more here than on single-trunk citrus, since an unmanaged plant thickens outward as much as it grows upward.

Special Growth to Remove

Remove rootstock suckers below the graft union – this species is commonly grafted onto other citrus rootstock, and sucker growth from below the union will not bear true finger lime fruit. Beyond that, distinguish rootstock suckers (remove) from the plant’s own basal stems (selectively retain some, as this is a naturally multi-stemmed species).

Tools

Bypass secateurs for the fine, very thorny twig growth; loppers for basal stem removal and thicker structural cuts, since gloved hand access is limited by the thorns.

Tool Hygiene & Disease Risk

Routine: clean, sharp tools are sufficient; this species shares the general citrus disease list (leaf miner, citrus black spot, Alternaria) but no pruning-transmitted pathogen is specifically indicated.

Cut Placement & Technique

Remove unwanted basal stems flush at ground level or at their point of origin rather than leaving stubs, which would resprout into more crowding; use thinning cuts on interior wood; work deliberately given the thorn density to avoid tearing bark on adjacent stems.

Heavy Pruning & Rejuvenation

An overgrown, thicket-bound plant tolerates a substantial basal thinning to reset stem spacing, best done at the end-of-winter window; because fruit can still be hanging from the previous season, check before cutting and spread a heavy thinning over two seasons if a full crop is still present.

Post-Pruning Care

Keep soil moisture even through the long fruit-hold period so fruit doesn’t dry out on the plant; watch new basal regrowth for leaf miner, to which young growth on this species is sensitive.

Common Pruning Mistakes

Trying to force a single-trunk tree form onto a naturally multi-stemmed species; leaving basal-stem stubs that resprout into denser thicket growth; forgetting fruit can still be hanging from many months earlier and cutting into a productive stem.

When NOT to Prune

Avoid pruning during the spring–summer bloom or while fruit is anywhere in its long autumn-to-spring hold period on the plant; avoid pruning a newly transplanted specimen beyond removing damaged growth.

Recommended Tools (by task)

• bypass_secateurs – fine, thorny twig and small-branch work.
• loppers – basal-stem removal and structural cuts in the thicket base.

Pruning Troubleshooting

Problem	Possible Cause	What to Check	Corrective Action
Overcrowded, thicket-like base	Basal stems never selectively thinned	Number and spacing of stems at ground level	Select 2–4 main stems, remove the rest flush at their base
Fruit drying or rotting on the plant	Extended natural fruit hold mistaken for a problem	How long fruit has been hanging	Monitor and harvest before quality declines rather than assuming a pest/disease issue
Non-fruiting vigorous shoots	Rootstock suckers from below the graft union	Origin point of vigorous shoots relative to the graft	Remove rootstock suckers at their base
Dieback after cuts	Stub left instead of a flush basal or thinning cut	Cut placement on removed stems	Recut flush to origin/ground level

Pests, Diseases & Troubleshooting

Overview: All citrus share a well-known pest and disease profile dominated by sap-suckers (scale, mealybugs, aphids, whitefly, mites), the leaf-mining citrus leafminer, and the psyllid that spreads the incurable greening disease, plus fungal gummosis and root rot and the bacterial canker and greening. Healthy trees on good drainage, with clean sanitation, airflow and encouragement of natural enemies, shrug off most problems; prevention and quarantine awareness matter most for the serious diseases.

Quick Troubleshooting Overview

Issue / Pest	Main Symptom	Primary Solution
Citrus leafminer	Silvery serpentine mines, curled new leaves	Protect flush, prune less, oil, parasitoids
Scale & mealybugs	Bumps/cottony masses, honeydew, sooty mould	Horticultural oil, ant control, beneficials
Aphids & whitefly	Curled tips, honeydew, virus spread	Water jet, soap/oil, conserve parasitoids
Citrus red/rust mite	Stippling, bronzed rinds and leaves	Hose foliage, oil, predatory mites
Asian citrus psyllid	Twisted new growth; spreads greening (HLB)	Monitor, remove infected trees, control psyllid
Gummosis / root rot	Bark oozing gum, dieback, root decay	Drainage, keep trunk dry, phosphonate

Common Pests & Management

• Citrus leafminer (Phyllocnistis citrella):
  • Symptoms: Silvery, winding serpentine mines in tender new leaves with a fine dark line inside; leaves curl, twist and are stunted, and mines on shoots can open the door to citrus canker. Young trees and repeated flush are worst hit.
  • Prevention & Control: Protect and synchronise new flush, avoid excess nitrogen and needless pruning that triggers off-season flush, and let established trees carry mild damage — they tolerate it well. Conserve the parasitic wasps that attack it, and coat new flush with horticultural or neem oil to deter egg-laying; time oil for the evening.
• Scale insects (Aonidiella aurantii (red scale), Coccus spp., Icerya purchasi (cottony cushion)):
  • Symptoms: Fixed brown, red or waxy bumps, or the fluted white ‘cottony cushion’ bodies, on leaves, twigs and fruit; sticky honeydew and black sooty mould, with yellow spotting and dieback under heavy pressure.
  • Prevention & Control: Prune out and destroy encrusted wood, open the canopy for airflow, and control the ants that farm scale so beneficials can work. Conserve parasitic wasps and the vedalia beetle (for cottony cushion scale). Horticultural oil smothers crawlers — cover thoroughly and repeat.
• Mealybugs and aphids (Planococcus citri; Aphis spp., Toxoptera aurantii (black citrus aphid)):
  • Symptoms: Mealybugs form white cottony clusters in leaf axils and on fruit; aphids swarm tender flush, curling and distorting new leaves. Both drop honeydew and grow sooty mould, and aphids can spread citrus tristeza virus.
  • Prevention & Control: Hose off colonies, control tending ants, and conserve ladybirds, lacewings and parasitic wasps. Treat hot-spots with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil on the undersides and flush; avoid heavy nitrogen that fuels soft growth.
• Citrus whitefly and mites (Dialeurodes citri; Panonychus citri (red mite), Phyllocoptruta oleivora (rust mite)):
  • Symptoms: Whiteflies rise in white clouds and coat leaves in honeydew and sooty mould; spider mites cause stippling and leaf bronzing, while the citrus rust mite bronzes and russets the rind, downgrading fruit.
  • Prevention & Control: Hang yellow sticky traps for whitefly and conserve their parasitic wasps; for mites, hose foliage, avoid dust and drought stress, and conserve predatory mites. Horticultural oil controls both whitefly and mites — treat undersides and rinds, avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides that flare mites.
• Asian citrus psyllid (Diaphorina citri):
  • Symptoms: Tiny aphid-like insects feeding at a jaunty angle on new flush, with waxy tubules and twisted, notched young leaves; critically, the psyllid transmits Huanglongbing (citrus greening), the most destructive citrus disease.
  • Prevention & Control: Monitor new flush closely, especially in regions where greening occurs. Conserve the psyllid’s parasitoid (Tamarixia) and predators, protect young flush, and remove and destroy any tree confirmed with greening. Follow local quarantine guidance — this vector is why greening spreads.
• Fruit flies (Ceratitis capitata, Bactrocera spp.):
  • Symptoms: Females sting ripening fruit; maggots tunnel the flesh, which softens, discolours and drops. A major issue where these flies are established.
  • Prevention & Control: Hang lure or protein-bait traps, bag choice fruit, and — most importantly — collect and destroy all fallen and infested fruit to break the cycle. Harvest promptly and observe local fruit-fly quarantine rules.

Diseases & Fungal Issues

• Phytophthora gummosis, foot & root rot (Phytophthora nicotianae, P. citrophthora):
  • Symptoms: Oozing gum and dark, sunken, cracked bark at the trunk base and crown (foot rot/gummosis), with bark death, yellowing canopy and dieback; below ground, root rot decays feeder roots and thins the tree.
  • Treatment & Management: Prevention first: plant on well-drained soil or a mound with the graft union high and dry, keep irrigation, mulch and weeds off the trunk, and avoid waterlogging. Use resistant rootstocks. Cut away diseased bark to clean wood, and apply phosphonate (phosphorous-acid) treatments; improve drainage.
• Citrus canker (Xanthomonas citri subsp. citri):
  • Symptoms: Raised, corky, brown lesions with a water-soaked, yellow halo on leaves, twigs and fruit; severe cases cause defoliation, dieback and blemished, dropping fruit. Spread by wind-driven rain and worsened by leafminer wounds.
  • Treatment & Management: A regulated/quarantine disease in many regions — follow local rules and report suspected cases. Use clean stock, windbreaks, and copper protectant sprays on new flush and fruit in endemic areas, control leafminer, and remove and destroy infected material; avoid working trees when wet.
• Huanglongbing (citrus greening) (Candidatus Liberibacter asiaticus):
  • Symptoms: Blotchy, asymmetric leaf mottling, yellow-shoot decline, twig dieback, and small, lopsided, bitter, poorly-coloured fruit that stay green at the bottom; the tree slowly declines and dies. Spread by the Asian citrus psyllid.
  • Treatment & Management: There is no cure. Buy certified disease-free trees, control the psyllid vector rigorously, and remove and destroy infected trees promptly to protect others. Keep trees vigorous and follow area-wide/quarantine programmes where greening is present.
• Greasy spot, melanose & sooty mould (Zasmidium citri-griseum (greasy spot); Diaporthe citri (melanose); sooty mould fungi):
  • Symptoms: Greasy spot makes yellow blister-like blotches and greasy brown lesions that drop leaves; melanose produces rough, sandpapery dark specks on leaves and rind; sooty mould is a black film over honeydew.
  • Treatment & Management: Rake and remove fallen leaves and deadwood (melanose lives in dead twigs), improve airflow, and control honeydew-producing pests to stop sooty mould. Copper protectant sprays help against greasy spot and melanose in wet climates; keep trees vigorous.
• Citrus tristeza virus (CTV) (Citrus tristeza virus):
  • Symptoms: Decline, stunting, stem pitting and, on susceptible rootstocks (notably sour orange), sudden or slow collapse; spread by aphids and infected budwood.
  • Treatment & Management: Use certified virus-free budwood and CTV-tolerant rootstocks — the key controls. Manage aphid vectors, and remove severely declining trees. This is why the rootstock choice matters as much as the scion.

Growing Difficulties & Abiotic Problems

• Nutrient chlorosis (iron, zinc, manganese):
  • Cause & Symptoms: Yellowing between green veins on new leaves (iron), blotchy mottling (zinc/manganese), or overall paling, common on alkaline, cold or waterlogged soils where roots cannot take up micronutrients.
  • Correction Strategy: Correct soil pH toward slightly acidic, improve drainage, and apply chelated iron and a citrus micronutrient feed (foliar zinc/manganese); feed regularly through the growing season with a balanced citrus fertiliser.
• Fruit splitting and premature fruit drop:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Rinds split (often at the navel end) and young fruit drops after erratic watering, sudden rain after drought, heat stress or nutrient imbalance (low potassium/calcium).
  • Correction Strategy: Keep soil moisture even with mulch and regular deep watering, avoid drought-then-flood swings, and maintain balanced nutrition with adequate potassium; some natural fruit thinning is normal.
• Frost and heat damage:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Frost blackens and drops leaves, damages fruit and can kill young wood; extreme heat and sun scorch leaves and sunburn exposed fruit and bark.
  • Correction Strategy: Site in a warm, sheltered spot, protect young or container trees over frost with covers or by moving under shelter, and whitewash or shade exposed trunks and fruit in intense heat.
• Leaf drop and stress from overwatering, salt or transplanting:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Sudden leaf yellowing and drop from soggy roots, salty soil or water, cold roots, or root disturbance; container citrus is especially prone.
  • Correction Strategy: Water deeply but let the top of the soil dry between waterings, ensure sharp drainage and never leave pots in standing water, flush salts from container mixes periodically, and avoid disturbing roots.
• Container and indoor stress:
  • Cause & Symptoms: Indoor and potted citrus commonly drop leaves and attract scale, mealybugs and spider mites from dry air, low light and root confinement.
  • Correction Strategy: Give the brightest possible position, raise humidity, water and feed correctly for pots, repot periodically with fresh free-draining mix, and inspect regularly for scale and mites, treating early with horticultural oil.

What Helps — Products & Tools

Manage citrus mainly through drainage, sanitation, canopy airflow and conserving natural enemies. Useful products include horticultural and neem oil (leafminer flush protection, scale, mealybugs, whitefly, mites), insecticidal soap (aphids, soft scale), yellow sticky traps (whitefly), fruit-fly lure/bait traps, copper protectant fungicide (canker, greasy spot, melanose, gummosis cankers), and phosphonate (phosphorous-acid) treatments for Phytophthora gummosis and root rot. Where citrus greening or canker occur, follow local quarantine guidance. Spray oils in the evening to protect pollinators.

Propagation Guide

Finger lime is best propagated by grafting or budding onto citrus rootstock, since the site’s own fruit description notes that the internal pulp color varies widely and is not predictable from the rind, so named color-selected cultivars must be propagated vegetatively to come true; it also roots from stem cuttings using the warm, humid method described on this page. Seed-grown plants will vary in pulp color and fruit quality, so vegetative propagation is preferred for named forms; overall difficulty is moderate.

Quick Propagation Specs

Best Propagation Method	Grafting/budding onto citrus rootstock
Alternative Methods	Stem cuttings; air layering; seed (variable pulp color and quality, not recommended for named cultivars)
Propagation Difficulty	Moderate
Seed True-to-Type	Variable – seedlings commonly differ in pulp color and fruit quality from the parent; grafting is recommended to guarantee a specific cultivar’s characteristics
Vegetative True-to-Type	Yes – grafting and cuttings preserve the parent tree’s characteristics, including pulp color
Best Propagation Season	Spring to early summer (also possible summer-autumn) for seed and rooting; active growth periods favored for grafting
Seed Germination Time	2-4 weeks, sometimes longer
Cutting Rooting Time	Several weeks under warm, humid conditions
Germination Temperature	20-27°C (68-81°F)
Seed Sowing Depth	2cm (1 inch)

Growing from Seed

Seed Handling & Viability

Keep seed in a dry, dark spot at room temperature until sowing; avoid prolonged storage, since citrus seed generally germinates most reliably when not left to dry out for long periods.

Sowing Season

Spring to early summer, also possible in summer to autumn.

Sowing Depth & Orientation

Sow about 2cm (1 inch) deep in soil kept moist, and cover the seed lightly.

Germination Conditions

Moist, well-drained, rich soil in a sunny position at 20-27°C (68-81°F); do not let the soil dry out.

Germination Time

Usually 2-4 weeks, though it can take longer.

Seedling Care

Young seedlings are especially vulnerable to citrus leaf miner; if leaf miner is active nearby, protect seedlings in a greenhouse or indoors and mulch the soil.

Stem Cuttings

Cutting Type

Stem cuttings taken with clean, sterilized tools.

Cutting Preparation

Use a sterilized knife, and sterilize the rooting soil beforehand (for example by heating it in a microwave) to reduce disease risk.

Rooting Setup

Root in a medium that holds moisture well, such as peat soil, coconut coir, or peat moss, kept moist but not waterlogged, at 25-28°C (77-82°F) or possibly a little higher, with high humidity – ideally fog-like humidity around the cutting.

Rooting Hormone

Recommended by the site’s own guidance to support rooting.

Rooting Time

Typically several weeks under these warm, humid conditions.

Grafting & Budding

Why Grafting Is Used

The site’s own guidance is explicit that grafting or cutting propagation is necessary to guarantee the tree bears fruit and to control fruit quality – size, taste, color of the fruit, juiciness, seediness, and fruiting season all depend on the scion cultivar, and grafting more than one cultivar (or citrus type) onto the same tree is a common practice.

Rootstock

A disease-free rootstock is chosen for adaptability to local soils and drought tolerance; the rootstock does not determine fruit quality, only the scion does.

Scion Selection

Budwood should come from a confirmed, healthy finger lime tree with the desired pulp color and fruiting characteristics.

Best Grafting Season

Warmer months when the tree is in active growth and the bark separates easily are generally favored for citrus budding.

Graft Aftercare

Protect the graft union until it has healed, and remove any shoots that arise from the rootstock below the union.

Air & Ground Layering

Air layering is listed among the standard ways to start this plant. Select a pencil-thick, semi-mature branch, wound or girdle a short section, wrap it in moist sphagnum moss and plastic, and keep it consistently moist; rooting typically takes several weeks to a couple of months before the layer can be severed and potted as an own-root, true-to-type plant.